1995 - European Vacation Part 1
European Trip 1995
In the previous post I described the upcoming 2-week tour of Europe with my then new girlfriend Rachael. Well, here goes:
Day 1: Take CT Limo from New Haven to JFK airport. We checked our bags at the Virgin Atlantic counter, and proceeded down the moving walkway to the terminal. It was at this point that I began my lifetime hobby of videotaping our vacations, often at inappropriate moments, such as walking backwards on a moving walkway at JFK airport. Get the picture?
We boarded our plane, and having never been on Virgin Atlantic before, we were very impressed with the goody bag they give you. I don’t recall many details of the flight itself, but no doubt we arrived safely at Heathrow. We claimed our bags and used the FREE luggage trollies to move to customs. Did I mention the luggage trollies are FREE? I recall Rachael and I commenting how tired we were, and then we began singing “I Wanna Be Sedated” by the Ramones as we walked.
Somehow we arrived at our hotel, either by bus or taxi. The room was nice, two single beds, and a toilet in one closet, a sink and tub in the other. Wild!
Seeing as it was mid-morning, it was out on the town we went. I believe we went down to the embankment via the Underground, saw the Houses of Parliament, then went into a pub for lunch and a pint (this was slightly before my pint drinking days by the way). Then we went off to Oxford Street to do some shopping. At the Virgin Megastore I bought some CDs not available in the US, one from Van Halen in a round tin, and another from the Yardbirds featuring Jimmy Page. Current stuff obviously.
At around 6pm we went over to the Royal National hotel to meet up with our Contiki tour group. It was hot and dark down in the bowels of the hotel, but I do recall we were introduced to our tour driver George, and given really cheesy Contiki backpacks, and given the opportunity to purchase money packs for our tour.
I don’t remember dinner, it may have been Indian, but that may have been on the way home.
Hey this is 11 years ago, you should be impressed I remember anything!
Now what was I talking about.....?
The next morning we checked out of the hotel, and went to meet our bus outside the Royal National. We loaded our suitcases underneath, met our driver Blackie (no, really) and climbed aboard. I think we grabbed the front seats.
As we drove around London, George began his two weeks of rattling off factoids. The only one I remember was a description of a grassy knoll near Parliament which had previously served as both a pasture as well as a dumping ground for people keeling over from the Plague.
We were then invited up to the front of the coach to introduce ourselves using the PA system. Being somewhat of a nutcase, I went first, and instead of saying my name and where I was from, I began making up my own factoids about the passing scenery(something about sleeping cows), much to the chagrin of Rachael. I then went on to say who I was, and that I had met my girlfriend Rachael on the internet (in reality, AOL was not and is still not the internet, but most people don’t really know the difference.)
After an hour or so, we arrived in Dover for the ferry ride over to Calais, France. We spent the journey up on deck, I believe I videotaped the entire journey in real-time. It was windy. Actually we did have breakfast in the on-board cafeteria, I think I had rice crispies with milk.
We arrived in France, and left the ferry the same way we boarded - by luxury motor coach.
I don’t think the bus stopped anywhere in France, and soon we were in Belgium. There we stopped at a highway rest stop for the restroom (they don’t use the word bathroom in most of the rest of the world actually) and some souvenir shopping. Then back on the bus until we arrived in Amsterdam.
Our hotel was actually in a suburb called Hamsterdam.
Ok that’s not true, but it was something-dam. Our hotel was on an inlet of some body of water. If I were actually researching the facts in these blogs I could tell you the exact longitude and latitude, but I’m testing my long-term memory here, so let’s move on.
Our room was pretty cool. We had a large feather bed on a tile floor, with a sliding door leading to a balcony overlooking the previously mentioned inlet of the Amsterdamian Sea. We had a private bath, and above that a loft, with additional sleeping for more people.
Dinner was not for an hour or so, and Rachael wanted to rest, so I and some of my new friends went for a walk around Whateveryoucallitdam. It was a quaint little village, complete with its own canals and pretty bridges. Somehow people managed to parallel park tiny automobiles along these canals. Then back at the hotel we had a group dinner featuring Lord knows what. I think there were some vegetables and meat-by-products, but I’ll never know. Those crazy Dutch.
After dinner, we boarded the bus for our night tour of Amsterdam. As we approached each new country or city, the tour director George played a cleverly selected song for the umpteenth time, but the first time for us, to set the mood. Tonight he played Roxanne by the Police. Up until this point, I did not exactly grasp the meaning of “Red Light District” nor did I understand that line from the song. That was about to change.
We arrived in Amsterdam proper, and as a group made our way to the Red Light District, which in case you also don’t know, is where young, mostly Asian women have little houses in which they entertain. Suddenly it all became very clear. Crystal clear. I don’t think I blinked for the next hour.
Speaking of not blinking, the next stop was a theater, where we as a group were pre-booked to see a show featuring local entertainers. Great, I thought, some authentic Amsterdam culture, music, dancing, etc. We took our seats, the lights dimmed, and the flashy lights and music started. It was the Batdance by Prince. Ok, maybe this is the pre-show entertainment. Out walked a man wearing the Batman cowl and cape - and little else. I suppose that was hit Bat-a-rang hanging from his utility belt. Open mind, Mike.
Next a woman who I guess was Catwoman appeared, she was in a cat-like pose anyway. Then....then.....ummm....time passes and it was morning. Whew!
During that passage of time, let’s just say that there were many new experiences for both of us. Use your imagination, that just might come close.
Somehow we managed to navigate the public tram system after midnight and made it back to the hotel.
Our next stop was Germany. Rachael has an expression when she sees a worried expression on my face, the “Germany Look.” Here is where that came from. Around lunchtime, we stopped at a highway rest stop somewhere in the Rhineland. We went to a food counter, and since everything on the menu was in German, we ordered by pointing to breaded specialties in a glass case. Was it chicken, pork, meat or otherwise? No idea whatsoever. I was as close to a mental collapse as ever before, and Rachael helped by ordering something for me. It was beyond disgusting.
We then arrived in our first German destination, St. Goar, a beautiful village on the banks of the Rhine. Once again, our hotel room had a breathtaking view of the scenery, mountains, castles, river and street below. This hotel room was the model of European hotel rooms. Feather bed, duvet, private bath with a modern pushbutton toilet and carpeting!
It was off to a wine tasting at a wine cellar-like place. It may have been a wine cellar. The host showed us a slide presentation, and we ate bread and presumably drank wine. I recall making animal shapes with the bread and dancing them in front of the slide projector’s light beam. This got a good laugh or two. Grow up man!
We must have purchased some wine, then it was off to a bar for a night of drinking (apparently this is what twenty-somethings do on these tours). There must have been another inedible dinner in there somewhere. I soon became bored with the drinking, and took a walk up the hill to the gates of an old castle/hotel with some of the other tour people. By the time I got back, Rachael and the rest of the gang were ready to leave, and it was off to sleep.
The next morning we did some cuckoo-clock shopping (apparently the cuckoo-clock was invented around here) as well as beer steins. Breakfast was forgettable, crusty rolls appear to be all they have here. So it was back on the bus for another few hours of fun on the highway. Now would be a good time to mention that each tour group was known by its official song. Each morning on the bus, we were treated to “Good Vibrations” by the Beach Boys. I don’t know if it was the same song every tour group with each George-like tour director, or if they all chose a new song for each group. Whatever.
We next arrived in Munich, the New York City of Germany. We of course checked into our hotel, a cookie-cutter SOFITEL model with no elevator, or perhaps a very small one. First stop, Glockenspiel, the all too famous clock featuring marionettes and splendid bells. As we were walking back, Rachael’s ankles swelled up so drastically she thought she might have DVT’s from the plane. A chiropractor in the tour group suspected this diagnosis as well, so he suggested we get her checked out. Upon hearing this, I became light headed and may have actually seen dancing unicorns and yellow duckies floating around my head. Once I got ahold of myself, we took a BMW taxi to the local Nazi-era hospital. Did I mention the taxi was a BMW?
The hospital was a menacing stone number straight out of Nuremberg. I was seated in a stark marble echo chamber of a hallway alone on a wooden bench as Rachael was taken away by Nurse Mengele to who knows what sort of torture. Meanwhile someone came out and took down Rachael’s vital information, apparently so they could send her parents her remains. I don’t know if they did an ultrasound or what but they released her many hours later, and it was back to Democracy! Incidentally later that year Rachael received a series of letters in German, eventually learning that she owed the hospital for her treatment.
We found our way to the massive Biergarten where we had agreed to meet the others. This was in fact a massive beer drinking hall. I ordered a mammoth bowl of soup - at this point I would have eaten that meat-like breaded object from a few days ago. I also ordered and consumed a 1 liter mug of beer. There was singing and dancing, accordion playing, picture taking and so on. Not an unpleasant way to end this bizarre day.
The next day it was back on the bus, Good Vibrations, and off to Austria. The scenery was breathtaking. So lush and green. Our stop this day was white water rafting. Rachael and I had wisely decided not to do this. So we and a handful of others from the group had a leisurely afternoon at the park-like area where the rafting tour was to conclude. It was actually nice to chill out, play some volleyball, each some greasy hamburgers, lie in the sun and generally relax. You need some of that on a vacation, and the tour was not yet half over.
Then we were back on the bus and into Hopfgarten, our little ski-resort village for the night. Our hotel was another beautiful one, with a great room and view out to the hills. We took the ski lift to the top of the non-snow covered hill for a great vista of the town and surrounding hills. Rachael was surprised to learn that the ski lift does not stop to let you off at the top. We survived. Back at sea level we walked around the town, bought some trinkets including the famous blue schnapps (I still have a bottle unopened I think) and some exotic dessert called flan. Actually I had seen flan before back 1987 when our family took a vacation in England, but this was as good as new to me.
Then it was back to the hotel for another forgettable German-like dinner. Next the group went out to a bar for a night of darts, schnapps tasting and general mayhem. Well by now you should know my affinity for bars, so at one point in the night I decided to go back to the hotel. I thought Rachael understood that when I said “I’m going” I meant back to the hotel. So while I was snuggled up in bed, she and the others were frantically looking in the bathrooms and the surrounding alleys for me. Eventually Rachael found her way back to the hotel, knocked on our door, and proceeded to rip me a new one.
Guilty as charged.
I don’t think we kissed and made up at this point, but we did stay together. It was dicey however.
The next day it was back on the bus, Good Vibrations, and bad traffic. We sat on that bus for most of the day in bumper-to-bumper traffic as we entered Italy. I will say that the highway rest stops got progressively better as we left Germany’s influence behind. Rachael introduced me to Prosciuto Crudo sandwiches. I did not like them at first, but it was worlds better than Schnitzel and meat-like objects enjoyed by our neighbors to the north.
Finally we arrived in Venice. Before getting on the water taxi to St. Mark’s Square, we were instructed to change into pants if we wanted to visit any churches. On the dock there were pay restrooms, essentially outhouses with a hole in the floor. Very sanitary. Then onto the boat. As Indiana Jones said “Ahh Venice.” It is an amazing city.
First stop was the glass blowing demonstration. I should mention that the tour director, indeed the tour company, has a deal with shops in each city we visit. I presume the tour director gets a piece of the action, as he leads us to the preferred shops as the first stop after leaving the bus. Of course we bought something at each shop, as we presumably got a slightly better deal than elsewhere.
After that we were on our own for a few hours. First we sat down at an outdoor café in St. Mark’s Square, where there was a symphony playing. We had ice cream and watched the famous pigeons in the square. It was about this time that we started talking to each other again. As I said, it was dicey.
Then we took a gondola ride, with another couple from our group. This was amazing. We purchased some bread and Pinot Grigio wine ahead of time, and it made for a magical sunset ride through the canals of this amazing city. We were in love again!
Next it was off to dinner. Somehow we followed the map we had and found our way to the restaurant for the group dinner. Now this is eating. Antipasto followed by unbelievable pasta followed by veal or chicken or who knows what it was, but it was gooooood.
More gooooood please!
Off to the water taxi to our bus to our hotel and to sleep. Next morning it was bus, Good Vibrations, highway, Siena. Siena is a well preserved Medieval city, in which there is a yearly horse race around the town square, which is a huge piazza - with anchovies. Actually we did have really good pizza here. The symbol of the town is a large clock tower reminiscent of the one in Waterbury, CT. I should mention that early in our relationship Rachael and I started collecting rocks from wherever we visited. Carrying a Sharpie marker, I would write our names and the country or city name on the rock. In the case of Siena, I drew a picture of the clock tower. We have all of these rocks on a shelf in our bookcase! No doubt the European Geological Societé du Anthropoligiqué is onto us now.
Next it was off to Rome, marking the half-way point of the trip. And this will also mark the end of this post. Stay tuned for the rest of our European Journey. Adventure. Excitement. A Jedi craves not these things.
